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I have an XSi. The Kit lens comes with IS but I KNOW you can take good shots without IS. Just up the shutter speed and that will reduce it. Also it is how you hold the camera. right hand holding it firmly with finger on shutter button while left hand has palm facing you holding the lens or camera body. I ordered a Sigma 55-200mm without IS and since it hasnt arrived yet I cannot show you photos. Another tip is to keep your elbows close to your body while shooting, doing this helps keep a steady hand.
Posted 2 months ago.
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All of my photos are w/o IS. I have an IS lens, but I almost always keep it switched off, I really just think it is bothersome and drains my batteries.
Here's just a taste of my stream:
My Most Interesting Set
Posted 2 months ago.
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Look in my stream. I have some hand held shots with a 500mm manual lens.
Also check out this PDF. It has a chart of minimum handheld shutter speeds for different lenses.
www.night-ray.com/PhotoCheatSheet.pdf
Posted 2 months ago.
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The problem is not that you don't have IS, it's that you aren't using your camera correctly. Nobody needs IS or a tripod to take great photos. I have an IS lens (24-105mm) but I rarely switch IS on. I haven't used my tripod in over a year.
S-l-o-w d-o-w-n, and really learn the basics. Learn about ISO, shutter speed and aperture. Once you do, you'll crank out great shots with the gear you have and look back on this post and laugh.
Posted 2 months ago.
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I could care less about IS. You have a Canon SLR...which performs very well at high ISO and typically has low noise. Learn how to hold the camera, for starters. I often shoot at speeds < 1/15s. A trick is to put the camera on multiple shot mode. Shoot 4 to 6 in a row. If holding your breath, squeezing the trigger instead of pulling it, and propping yourself up against a wall or other solid object, you're bound to have some good shots at slower shutter speeds.
Also, try to shoot at a shutter speed at or greater than the reciprocal of the focal length. If shooting at 50mm, set the shutter speed at 1/60s. Still can't do it? Increase ISO until you can. Still can't do it? Invest in a flash or tripod? Don't like tripods? Set the camera on a solid surface and use the built-in timer to take the shot.
IS is a new technology. How do you think photographers have been shooting photographs for decades without it?
Posted 2 months ago.
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The Canon 18-55mm IS
$175 - bargain!
Have a look at my photo stream - No IS and no tripod for all the shots. It can be done, its just that the 18-55mm kit lens is slow. Remember IS doesn't stop motion blur from your subjects moving.
Posted 2 months ago.
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Yes! I have only had my 100-400mm with IS for a couple months, so most of my zoo/wildlife shots have been taken with my 70-200mm f/4L, here are some examples:
 
 
It does take practice and a steady hand, (practice proper camera holding technique) but it is possible. But, you will want to keep your shutter as fast as possible, usually with my 200mm, I try to not go any lower then 1/60, and bump up my ISO accordingly to keep the shutter fast enough.
But, if you are really worried, you should get a monopod. They are really easy to carry along with you. I bought a monopod when I got the 100-400mm.
I'm sorry if I'm not much help. I'm not a technical shooter, I learn as much as I can, but I go mostly on natural instinct when shooting.
Originally posted 2 months ago.
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gira edited this topic 2 months ago.
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Some good advice in the above replies. Learn the basics, practice good technique, your keeper rate will soar.
Originally posted 2 months ago.
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Art- (a group admin) edited this topic 2 months ago.
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if you can learn to shoot without IS, what more when you do get to use one :)
Posted 2 months ago.
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The first lens I got had IS, but the optical quality was so disappointing that I exchanged it for an L lens. I loved the IS though.
However, none of the lenses that I now own have IS, so I guess a person can get along without.
Posted 2 months ago.
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never use either...is or tripod. But I'm just a newbie, so what do I know. Just finally got the nifty 50 in addition to my kit 18-55...so I have two cheap lens, and I love them (for now)!
Posted 2 months ago.
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The rule of thumb for blur-free (due to camera shake, not subject movement) hand held shots is that the shutter speed should be faster than 1/(lens focal length x sensor crop factor). For the XTi, the crop factor is 1.6.
Posted 2 months ago.
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the rule of thumb would apply to average shooting technique, sometimes you cant help but just really require a tripod for special cases (e.g. handicap, heavy equipment, etc)
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One of the most common things I have experienced with people who are new to SLR type cameras is that they try to shoot with slow shutter speeds. The longer the lens, the higher the necessary shutter speed to avoid shake.
Really pay attention to your shutter speeds and don't be afraid to push your iso speeds up in order to get the necessary shutter speeds to stop the shake. The 1/(focal length x crop factor) is a good place to start, but if that's not fast enough find more speed by increasing ISO or opening up aperture.
Too fast is typically better than too slow when you are learning. Once you've spent some time with your camera and have a better understanding of your lenses and body you will be able to bring the speeds down...
For what it's worth, I only ever count on IS as an absolute last resort. That's typically when it's pitch black and the ISO is maxed, the aperture is full open, and my only option is to hand hold.
Posted 2 months ago.
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That's with a Tamron 28-300mm. no IS
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like my canon 200mm 1.8 weigh like a ton, always hand held
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Since I am 67 years old and have taken thousands of pics since taking the 35mm leap in 1971, I can attest to the fact that great shots can be taken without IS. In fact, I never had an IS lens until about a year ago.
The "trick" to getting along without IS is to learn photography. Understanding exposure goes a long way towards creating good pictures, with or without all the techno gadgets we have available today.
Posted 2 months ago.
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Kurt Schlatzer summed it up pretty well. I too have very, very little stuff in my stream that uses IS and even less that actually needed it.
Posted 2 months ago.
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i think IS is overrated ... unless you are using long telephoto lenses. somebody once told me that "how do you think they got great shots way back when?" its not about the equipment. well, it helps but its not the "cure-all".
Posted 2 months ago.
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I find that IS actually gets in my way sometimes. I rarely use it but when I do I forget sometimes that I have it on when I'm using a tripod. The only lens I currently use with IS is the 28-135mm IS USM. Its around 415-420$
Posted 2 months ago.
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My 17-55 2.8's IS has been acting up recently to the point of becoming unusable. I'm seriously considering if I should even have it repaired. It probably wouldn't be cheap, repair times over here are around 6 weeks, and it really isn't that helpful. Maybe I'll just tape over the switch.
Posted 2 months ago.
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Learn to steady yourself and find out what the relationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO can do for you. Photographers have shot without IS for a really long time. It's just a handy gimmick. Invest in a good tripod and fast glass bump up the ISO and go to town.
Posted 2 months ago.
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I actually think that IS can be quite valuable under certain circumstances. How often those circumstances arise depends a great deal on what you shoot and your shooting style. Many of the people who don't find in especially useful take a lot of "action" shots. I use a tripod a more often than not but I've found that tripods don't always let you position the camera to get the shot you want and that you can miss a shot in the time it takes to get set up. But I'd agree that IS it's most useful in providing an extra advantage when you're shooting on the margins and not something that that is going to be helpful on the majority of shots.
And I'd agree that learning to pay attention to shutter speed and learning the threshold below which you can't hold a shot are the most important things in avoiding motion blur. Along those lines, don't shoot in the auto modes. Shoot in Manual, Av and Tv. Train yourself to be conscious of what shutter speed, aperture and iso you are using on each shot and know why you are using those particular settings.
Posted 2 months ago.
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I use IS all the time as I don't like carrying around my tripod. You do have to let it start up first and also hold your camera properly to minimize camera shake. . Its great and useful tool for very low light and long lenses. For those who do not like it you can save some $$$ but IS is very popular.
BTW I replaced the IS on my 17-55/2.8IS already.
Posted 2 months ago.
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You absolutely must have all the gadgets in order to take a decent photograph. All photos taken before IS were rubbish and not worth looking at. (take a look at this rubbish stuff as an example of the sort of crap that old people did with rubbish lenses and no IS)
www.yale.edu/amstud/r66/fr1.html
I am also doing a full range of other gadgets which you absolutely need before you even consider pressing the shutter button. They include:-
The shiny new green organic top quality patented super cloth, specially impregnated with hydrogenated oxygen available only from me at a special price for this group of only $102.........
I can also do special deals on other such vital essentials for Digital Photographers as the special digitally modulated protective UV filter at only $171 and extension tubes filled with high quality digitally perfect gas mixture containing a balanced mixture of Nitrogen, Oxygen, Carbon Di Oxide and trace elements, optically perfect and pressured to match exactly the outside atmosphere...$525
Watch this space for ways to transfer your bank balance to me.
Posted 2 months ago.
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Shoot at f8-f11 to get sharpess. Lower f-number increases shutter speed.
Shoot up to ISO 400 to get more shutter speed
For low shots, support your elbow on your knee to act as a monopod
Use walls or other supprt
use a tripod, or if that won't work in your situation, consider using a monopod
Take a burst of 3-5 shots - you should find one will be in forcus
Use the snipers method. Breath in and out slowly, then breath out. At the end of the breath - shoot. Your body will have momemntum back and forth as you breath which will minimise sideways movement.
Be patient and keep trying
IS does work. This was taken at ¼ second on my old 30D and 17-55 f2.8 IS using teh knee support mentioned above
Posted 2 months ago.
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IS is for lesser beings!! .... no i suppose it's a lovely concept, but it just makes things heavier. It is more than possible to capture sharp images without IS..... listen to MisterSqueeze.... he seems to be making sense!
Posted 2 months ago.
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If you need IS in an 18-55mm lens, you're doing something wrong. Not a single pic in my stream is shot with IS.
Although it'd be nice on my 70-200..... And a 100-400 IS is on the cards at some point.
So yes, it's useful but why become dependent on it?
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Age and the conditions it often brings, I think, are a legitimate need for IS. It can make photography more accessible and enjoyable.
Posted 2 months ago.
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I'm a bad tripod, I'm quite shaky. I think IS could help me, though I've certainly managed sharp shots without.
Posted 2 months ago.
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The only IS I have is me. Most of my shots are hand held.
I did grow up with a film SLR though.
 
Also helps to have good light, good technique in holding the camera and high shutter speeds.
Posted 2 months ago.
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@adoption_is_luv
looking through your photostream I notice most of your shots are indoor shots so IS will help some but might be limited, try using a slightly higher ISO and/or experiment with external flash with a bounce or diffuser, but one of the best things are lens with a wider maximum aperture like, say, the 50 f/1.8 prime.
I love IS - it works a treat, but that said I only have it one one of my lenses (70-300 IS) wich is good for travel as I can leave the tripods at home. None of my L's have it (as they are old and mostly predate IS) I either crank up ISO, open the aperture up, use fill flash or use a tripod (or a combination of these)
Originally posted 2 months ago.
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the_man_who_wasn't_there edited this topic 2 months ago.
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When I first got my Dslr after years of using a point-and-shoot (they are usually very forgiving) I was frustrated with the shots I was getting- BUT be patient, practice as others have said there are lots of great advice in the posts above.
I also would suggest you check your local library for a copy or buy Bryan Peterson's Book - Understanding Exposure
Originally posted 2 months ago.
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tobias Gee edited this topic 2 months ago.
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I frequently use an "averaging" technique. Taking multiple shots at the highest iso setting and overlaying them via photoshops load into stack feature (while also checking auto align), then changing stack mode to "mean" average which reduces noise dramatically.
canon 400d at ISO 1600
Ricoh GX100 at ISO 800
Posted 2 months ago.
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I have no IS on my two lens. Take a look at my shots. But...are you one of those heavy fingered shutter pressers? I've seen people jerk their camera an inch or so pressing the shutter release.
Make sure your hand is cradling the camera, finger on the button and only..only the finger moves with a gentle push past focus etc. Squeeze it like you would shooting a gun. Stop breathing just before the shot.
Have someone watch you take a picture and see if you are not jerking the camera as you press.
NO camera had IS at one time. Keep your shutter speed 1/60 or above.
Posted 2 months ago.
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i'm going to stick my head above the parapit here for a second - i like shooting at night, and managed to crank out some passable stuff with my old P&S (without stabilisation, but using leaning posts, railings, etc)............... i would like IS for my night photography so i can work with longer exposures etc.
I agree wholeheartedly that during the day it's nothing but a luxury - but at night shooting with longer exposures/shutter times it becomes less of a luxury and more of a useful tool.
Posted 2 months ago.
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Well, if you have your camera on a tripod and use IS during multi-second exposures, the subtle "shake" the lens motor does will induce a motion in the image. I had that happen the first time I shot a long-exposure image without turning off the IS. It looked just like camera movement.
Posted 2 months ago.
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K J Photography That should only be the case with older IS lenses. Someone mentioned the Canon 28-135. Another example is the 100-400mm 4.5-5.6L. Newer IS lenses should not have this problem even if you forget to turn the IS off. Although it's still a good practice...
Posted 2 months ago.
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im not sure anybody here is debating whether IS is useful or not, for sure, under the right circumstances, it can be very useful, if it wasnt, they wouldnt have designed it.
but what IS true, is that many people don't realise what IS actually helps with (ie: handholding, not stopping motion), and what it CANT do (make your photography better)....thats the main issue i think....lotta people think they got IS, so therefore, all their images taken under any circumstances should be sharp....and this is obviously not correct
Posted 2 months ago.
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DimsumDarren Lot of people think that about expensive cameras and L lenses too...
Posted 2 months ago.
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Thanks so much for all of the responses and examples! I guess I was just spoiled with my point and shoot doing everything for me. But of course, it didn't do EVERYTHING or I wouldn't have moved to something more manual and better!
I can't wait to work with the camera more and really learn the REAL info of photography besides Point and Shoot!
Thanks again!
Posted 2 months ago.
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Yes, Image Stabilization has its place, and there are most likely some shots that you couldn't get without it.
But in my experience, having used IS and non-IS on a professional level (ie: getting paid), you'll actually NEED IS on very few shots.
Those who really seem to tout the benefits of IS also usually seem to have trouble getting good shots in general, not just when IS is needed. As many have said above -- learn about exposure, and how to handle your camera. Learn to increase ISO and decrease aperture in lower-light situations.
Even without a tripod, there's almost always something around to set the camera on to hold it steady. I've used fence posts, car tops, desks, shelves, counters, tables, etc., when the low light meant that hand shake would be a problem.
Posted 2 months ago.
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I may as well add my comments...
Oh dear....another "IS will do all the work" thread. (no offense intended)
Shooting at low shutter speeds is all about technique and using your surroundings. A lot of people use fast prime lenses for the purpose of low light photography, and these lenses dont have Image Stabilizer, nor are the photographers using tripods, but...
They may use buildings or fences, any kind of support, even resting on ones knee. This will help stabilize the shot.
Obviously throwing up the ISO sensitivity (which is getting incredibly good with each new body comming out) will give more shutter speed. Thus reducing camera shake. Don't be afraid to put the ISO to 1600, A4 prints look great, even without a little noise reduction. Canon's software does a reasonably good job anyway, and thats free.
Learning YOU'RE OWN WAY OF HAND-HOLDING (not shouting, just emphasising). Each person is different, and lefties probably have the worst time with DSLR cameras, as they're all arranged about the right hand shutter, so learn how to stabilize each lens you own, try to shoot as slowly as possible, and see how you may go about stabilizing yourself with no aid.
Checking weather conditions can help. If there's a strong wind blowing, try to head for cover, or get lower (if the shot doesn't suffer, obviously). You could also try wearing finger-less gloves, allowing free controlling fingertips, but giving you much warmer and more stable hands.
If you have enough memory card space you could try continuos shutter drive mode and run off a series of shots one after another. At least one of those shots could be free of shake, and/or subject movement.
This is maybe not the best approach but you could underexpose by 1-stop, then correct in post processing. Increased noise, some loss of detail, and other artifacts can creep in with this technique, but it does offer a whole stop of extra speed. It's often better to get a shot than not one at all.
Another side point is to learn how to selectively sharpen in post processing, like photoshop layers. You can beef up the sharpness of an image that has a little camera shake in it, and make acceptable prints.
Thats a few tips to bear in mind. You don't need image stabilizer, if your really gonna do long exposures use a tripod, thats what its for, but for general useage, the subject movement will more than likely screw the picture up before camera shake.
I shoot a 400mm f/5.6 non-IS prime lens at 1/250s with a high success rate, and 1/125s when its needed, with 50% of shots being good.
Hope that helps, and that I don't seem harsh.
Originally posted 2 months ago.
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leon_all_shots edited this topic 2 months ago.
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Leon_All_Shots:
I am a lefty btw! Not harsh at all. Like I said above..I think I have just been coddelled so long wiht my point and shoot that learning this myself is a bit of a trip! Im loving it though and enjoy the answers Im getting! Thanks again!
Posted 2 months ago.
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I would completely agree with those who say IS is not necessary; however, I would disagree with those who say it is never useful. In my opinion, there have been a number of truisms that have been tossed off here (I'll beg for forgiveness in advance if I've misconstrued anyones statements - but I don't believe that negates my points):
People took good pictures before IS. True, but people took good pictures before virtually all of the technologies that are available in our modern digital cameras. In fact, people took good pictures before digital sensors, fast lenses, color film, high speed film and even before there were lenses as we know them today. So what's the point?
IS is no substitute for a fast lens. True, but shooting wide open is not not desirable or optimum for every type of photography or for every individual photograph. There are instances when f/8 produces a better image than f/2.8 which is exactly what a decent IS lens will allow you to do.
IS is no substitute for a tripod. True, there is no image stabilization that is as good as a tripod, but as I said above, using a tripod is not always feasible and there are circumstances where you can miss good shots in the time it takes to get your tripod in place.
Just crank up the ISO. Sorry but if i have a choice between shooting at ISO 100 with IS or at ISO 800 without IS, I'm usually going pick the former.
IS doesn't stop a moving subject. Very true, but not every picture involves a moving subject. Also, with long lenses it is quite possible that to find yourself shooting at a shutter speed that is fast enough to freeze your subject but not fast enough to freeze the movement of the camera and lens. Most people can't hold a 400 mm lens still at a speed of less that 1/400 sec. I know from experience that I can sometimes (but not always) get a good shot at 1 stop slower than 1/focal length. But I can't reliably hand hold a 400 mm lens without IS at 1/250 sec let alone 1/125 sec.
I certainly don't see IS as a magic key to better photographs but I do see it as another useful tool that gives me additional control over the process and results.
Originally posted 2 months ago.
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inate edited this topic 2 months ago.
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you only need IS if you want to take shots in lower light than is recommended for hand holding the camera. so of course u can take great shots with out IS. none of my lenses have IS. and the quality of glass like L compared to non L give better image quality than IS, that is until you lower the shutter speeds as you would for lower light situations. many people opt for the better glass than the IS, unless they can afford both. like me lol, no not like me, i had to choose between the 70-200f4L (better glass) and the 70-300 IS (IS) and i went with the better glass (70-200). keep in mind wont freeze motion in low light situations, thats what wider apertures are for. its kinda like having a tripod for longer exposures, it keeps the lens still
Posted 2 months ago.
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Personally I can see the need for IS on long telephoto lenses being hand held, but really in anything shorter than say 100mm focal lengths, I think it is more marketing to people as a 'need' to those who don't know what the function of IS is (see 18-55IS kit lens for example). That being said, I'm sure there are situations where a 18mm IS shot can come in handy, but how often, and at what price? (again) Personally, I would rather have a larger aperture than IS if those were the choices. @OP, You don't need IS, but you may want IS and really the choice is yours. Seems like there is no shortage of help for you on this topic too. All said and done, use the tools available, but learn how (and why) to shoot in different situations while not relying on something like IS.
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does IS prevent double posting?
Posted 2 months ago.
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yes, unfortunately flickr hiccups do not.
Posted 2 months ago.
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in wide angle, larger aperture is preferred above IS
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As a professional photographer I shoot hand-held and use IS every day, but can tell you right now I get sharper images using a tripod.
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300mm handheld using a $10 Chain-O-Pod. It's still frustrating but the Chain-O-Pod does seem to help a little. It's cheap and very portable... so if you need that extra little edge, what have you got to lose?
Posted 2 months ago.
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Some people wondered how people got sharp photos before the invention of image stabilizers. The answer is they simply did not get the photos that today need an image stabilizer. If they tried it anyway they got a blurry photo in almost all cases and an occasional lucky shot that worked with a time that is normally not handholdable.
I found without image stabilizer 1/(3xfocal length) always gets me perfect sharpness. With 1/(focal length) or 1/(2xfocal lenght) you often get close to those results but never reach the same image quality.
Originally posted 2 months ago.
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Andreas Helke edited this topic 2 months ago.
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I think its some kind of macho thing ... "real photographers don't use IS" ;)
Originally posted 2 months ago.
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inate edited this topic 2 months ago.
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IS is just another tool in our arsenal of camera gear. Knowing when to use it and how it is going to affect the pics is a learning process. I use it sometimes and sometimes I don't--it is all about being smarter than the camera.
Having said that, I doubt that I could have gotten this shot without the Mode 2 IS.
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below I used 40D with 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM, IS helps alot
edited by scubapup: please post in medium size
Originally posted 2 months ago.
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scubapup (a group admin) edited this topic 2 months ago.
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 neither of those shots would be assisted in any way by IS. Using IS when shooting moving objects whilst panning is a good technique and has been done well in both shots, however IS is to reduce camera shake and makes no difference with a panned shot.
A monopod would be the most useful thing if required for panning, just watch any sports photographer.
Originally posted 2 months ago.
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troutmask edited this topic 2 months ago.
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i have the exact same setup as you do (even the same camera :] ). the 75-300mm lens is actually a pretty good lens, my favorite so far... as long as the picture is taken during the daytime or when there is enough lighting, both lenses can come out with amazing photos. also, the EF 50mm f/1.8 lens (non-IS) is something you should also consider. it takes clear photos, even in low lighting and is one of the cheapest lenses. i have photos used with the same setup as you do, take a look if you want.
Posted 2 months ago.
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well, actually, i reckon on panning shots, IS in mode 2 probably does help, especially at 200mm.....
Posted 2 months ago.
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DimsumDarren wrote well, actually, i reckon on panning shots, IS in mode 2 probably does help, especially at 200mm.....
On the 70mm - 200 mm f2.8L IS zoom lens it is true that IS may make a very marginal difference on a panned shot at 200mm. However no where near enough to compensate for poor technique in the first place and a monopod would be by far the best option.
On the shot taken with the 28 -105 mm lens IS would have no effect on a panned shot, indeed it could make it harder to achieve.
IS is a great extra for those that can afford it, but is a luxury item and basic technique and quality lenses will better IS used on relatively poor lenses; used as an alternative to learning technique every time. For me IS on short telephotos and even more ridiculously on WA lenses is just a gimmick to part more mugs from their money. But the more mugs who buy from Canon the cheaper the lenses can be sold at, so go on buy your fancy gimmicks!
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No Image Stabilizer on this one. Just to say these shots can be done without it. Fast autofocus, is almost essential (it can be done manually though...for the die hards!)
ISO 100, 1/10s, f/22, 70mm, 2-stop reduction from Polarizer.
EDIT: Comments recieved. I'll be childish here and say that I only did it as someone else did... By the way, what size is medium? 512 width?
Originally posted 2 months ago.
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leon_all_shots edited this topic 2 months ago.
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@develgorgor: Please don't post photos larger than 'medium'. I hate having to scroll my screen just to read comments.
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troutmask I don't know how you can be certain IS didn't help help on either of the bicycle shots. The first one was taken at 70mm and 1/80 sec. I would would say there is a good chance it did compensate for movement in the vertical plane. Could the same thing have been accomplished with a monopod? No doubt, but maybe the photographer didn't have one with him at the time. And if IS is going to allow one to carry less gear, I would see that as a big plus.
Originally posted 2 months ago.
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inate edited this topic 2 months ago.
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