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sounds like a good strategy.
I would like to add one:
I tried using the film simulation modes, but didn't like the results. I shoot RAW anyway, and find I can get things better to my taste in Lightroom.
If the film simulation goes awry (like it did for me) do a full camera reset. I was going crazy for a day or 3 trying to figure out what I had done to get the results that were frankly over processed for my taste.
I almost gave up on the camera because of this, until I realized i had experimented too much with the simulation mode without knowing what I was really doing.
Posted 13 months ago.
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I havent used Film simulation since I first got the camera. The results were unpredictable.
I shoot at high color, high contrast, medium sharpening. My out of camera JPEG's are always better than my RAW output.
Plus it saves on the workflow.
In fact, for best results, try shooting the s5 in manual mode. The results will knock your socks off.
Posted 13 months ago.
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I only shoot manual mode.
I like to muck around with RAW though, so I'll stick to Lightroom for that myself.
Posted 13 months ago.
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Well, one of the side benefits of shooting manually is that the camera shoots faster. :)
Posted 13 months ago.
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Turn off NR, helps a bit
Posted 13 months ago.
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Good tips, itinerant. I've got a D80 and hate the itty-bitty buffer problem :( Have a D80, but wouldn't mind an upgrade (therefore lurking) ;)
Posted 13 months ago.
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A physical way to see if youre about to hit the buffer limit is to watch the "R" number in the viewfinder. It starts on "r07" and will lock the camera on "r00". As the buffer clears, the number will go back to "r07".
Ease up on the machine-gunning at "r02" or thereabouts.
Posted 13 months ago.
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@itinerant--curious to know what you meant in the original post by "mastering the focus system." So far i don't feel like the S5 is harder to focus with then my D50---maybe i just haven't used it enough yet to run into weirdness. Admittedly i am changing settings more, but haven't had back focus problems that i've noticed.
Posted 12 months ago.
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Well, with the D50 - you only had the 5 focus points to contend with. On the s5 - you can run 11 selector points or combine them into 7 (on wide).
With an AF-S lens like a 17-55, your focus areas can be so precise, you have to learn how to "drive" the lens. On the D50, the lens could just focus on a general area and be fine. On the s5, it can back focus if you press the shutter too soon. You eventually learn that "setting and forgetting" the AF system isnt always the best thing to do.
Currently I use the "AF-ON" button to focus instead of half-pressing the shutter, as it makes the focus more reliable.
Posted 12 months ago.
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what do u mean drive the lens
Posted 12 months ago.
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Think of it in terms of this analogy:
Some lenses (and cameras), you point the lens and get a picture. Thats like driving a car with automatic transmission and power steering. SOME lenses (and cameras), you have to select focus points and areas, set the aperture for speed and depth of field.. you have to be more proactive in using them. It takes more skill and practice. You are learning how to DRIVE.
So, a lens like a 17-35, 17-55 or 70-200VR can be used simply, but to use them to their fullest potential you want to learn how "drive" these lenses. A s5 or D200 and the ilk, there is a whole lot more to it than just point and shooting. You have a plethora of options and control that take advantage of the capabilities of these lenses.
It is the difference between knowing how to drive a Ford Crown Victoria, and a Porsche 911.
And thats just the focusing system. :)
Posted 12 months ago.
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i do have the 17-55 u r talking about and u r right i have a llloott more practicing to do
Posted 12 months ago.
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I threw my 70-200VR on last night for a while (hadn't been using it with the S5 up to now) and yes, i did in fact have a few shots where i could have sworn i was focussing on something specific only to find that the camera preferred a spot elsewhere--had to change the AF settings to get what i wanted. So point taken Itinerant--with the D50 i never had to get that specific. Now i just need to find more time to practice :-)
Posted 12 months ago.
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My images (RAW) aways seem soft. I am using good glass and I "thought" I knew what I was doing. I shoot landscape. About to go to a D2Xs instead. Save me! Any ideas?
Posted 12 months ago.
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What was your previous camera?
Posted 12 months ago.
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wouldn't RAW images be soft if you are not using the Manufacture's RAW converter? Thats what I always thought. If you are not using the Fuji RAW converter you won't get the RAW adjustments you set in camera. So you will have to sharpen it up in post.
Posted 12 months ago.
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@ Joe ~ 1DsMKII, Powershot Pro 1, D70
@ Nakie ~ I use the bundled software that came with the camera (I purchased the pantone huey version). If you are speaking of the "Viewer" software...that is what I am using. Raw Shooter won't even open the .raf extension (at least my version wouldn't).
Originally posted 12 months ago.
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jmark media llc edited this topic 12 months ago.
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I found the s5's focus to be quieter, and I hoped better/smoother, but with the Tamron 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 it seemed to hunt/refine the focus even when focus was supposedly achieved, as the shots were being clicked off, just like my d200 would.
The focus lock button will be my friend, but in the field when I checked, I couldn't isolate the button to focus only as you can with the d200... Maybe I missed something, or mis-read something. please? It seemed to only show it as the EL-lock button, not the FL-lock button when I tried to adjust what the button controlled.
-Jon
Posted 11 months ago.
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Look at your thumb. Use the AF-Only button to lock focus instead of the shutter, which is what I do. You can adjust your focus settings under Setup
Posted 11 months ago.
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Disconnecting the shutter button from focus would be a big change for me, not sure I can handle that one. I'd probably have to do it on my D200 as well, to be consistent, and not go crazy.
Normally I shoot in AF-C, and when I need to recompose I use the AF-L button...
Posted 11 months ago.
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No, you can keep focus functions on the shutter button.
It's an adjustment, but it works. Im around 90/10 percent using the AF-Only for focus. Sometimes its faster to use the half-press on the shutter button.
Posted 11 months ago.
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So, I can use the AF-ON button as my AF-L (lock) button?? If so, ok, now I understand, cool. and thanks. I will check out the menu, and try to set that up.
Posted 11 months ago.
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Update - I'm a knucklehead. The AE-L / AF-L button can be setup just like on the D200, duh. I've got it set for focus lock only....
Posted 11 months ago.
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For fun, I shot off consecutive full high speed bursts(Im feening for a D2X as a sports camera) and timed how long it actually takes to clear the buffer and write these images.
Shot 3 bursts in each mode and timed them.
Fine JPEG: 15-18 seconds.
RAW: 36 - 38 seconds.
RAW+JPEG Fine: 35 seconds (consistent in 3 tries)
Not sure why it takes a bit longer for RAW than it does for RAW+JPEG (I didnt count how many shots went off in each burst, just the time it took to clear.)
But I hardly ever shoot in high speed mode anyway, so Ive rarely hit this barrier.
Originally posted 7 months ago.
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Itinerant edited this topic 7 months ago.
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I use S5 PRO with Tokina 12-24 f4 lens and it seems like I have a trouble with exposure metering when using "A" and "S" modes.
When I use "A" mode (my prefferable mode I almost always use) in the evening it doesn't know what shutter speed should be used and says "Lo", apperture=4. Then I tested it with Nikkor 50mm lens with the same settings (apperture=4) and it gives right shutter speed.
The same problem appears in the mode "S", but it cannot obtain the correct apperture, it just says "Lo", at the same time with Nikkor 50mm lens it obtains the correct apperture.
This problem doesn't appear when I use the mode "P".
But I usually use "S" or "A" modes and mode "P" is commonly not acceptable for my purposes.
Please, help me to resolve this problem. I think it's not a lens problem, maybe smth with the camera settings?
Posted 7 months ago.
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Im guessing here (because Ive never used a Tokina), but my guess is youre having fits with the CPU in the lens.
Some 3rd party lens makers pay royalties to Nikon and get the CPU/F-mount code. Others reverse-engineer the code, Sigma being one I know of, and their lenses will often not talk properly to the camera. Hence the need to send the lens in to be updated/reprogrammed.
But as I said, Im only guessing here.
Posted 7 months ago.
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I use the Tokina 12-24 f4 lens as well, without any of the problems you are experiencing. The fact that it works in P mode and that it works with the 50mm lens says the lens and camera are not talking so well, is my guess.
You should go to a camera shop and ask to try a Tokina 12-24 on your body, then you would know if the good new lens performs the same.
On mine, there is no problem.
Posted 7 months ago.
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This usually occurs in the middle of a session or event when youre trying to capture a sequence (usually a once in a lifetime thing like a graduation, performance or presentation) and you have to WAIT until the buffer clears, cursing as the event continues without you. Yes, its only 2 - 5 seconds in reality, but it feels like a frustrating eternity.
You have every right to be angry. Because that 2-5 seconds can be a money shot...
No one ever believes me... but it's true...
Time is money...
That being said... I invested $150 into a Hoodman RAW x300 speed 4gig CF card with no regrets. I use it in my S5 and D2x... and I kick myself in the butt for cheaping out all this time with x133 speed cards over the last year...
I've never once had to let my camera buffer with that x300 card.
Posted 6 months ago.
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Really? I am going to have to try that. Well, if Fuji offers a buffer upgrade like they did before they discontinued the s3, I'll definitely will have to take them up on the offer.
Posted 6 months ago.
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Ditto on the AF-L trick that Itinerant suggested. That's what I do and have gotten quite used to.
Repeat after me, "AF-L is your friend."
Originally posted 6 months ago.
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PowerCHU edited this topic 6 months ago.
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I set the af-on to focus instead of the shutter button. Otherwise af and vr are activated simultaniously, vr activates when the shutter is pressed half way. I also do this to extend battery life when using vr lenses.
Originally posted 3 months ago.
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Type-R edited this topic 3 months ago.
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