(1 to 100 of 114 replies)
Shelly and Roy 4:58pm, 8 May 2008
This is a technique I've been working on for a couple of weeks, and I've gotten it pretty streamlined. Some examples I've made (from other people's photos):
See me after classSnow White (graphic art)
Guitar HeroMy eyes are up here

Turning a photo into graphic art with the Gimp


Load your photo into the Gimp, and name the layer Original.

Do any color-correction and exposure correction to make it look good. Other defects like blurriness or noise are actually ok. They will affect the character of your final image in interesting ways.

Dark Shadows
Duplicate the Original layer and name the layer Ink. Choose Colors->Threshold. Slide the slider back and forth to find an appealing set of black. Look for contours and textures to appear, and also for the general mood created. Watch out for turning eyes sinister or obliterating them. You don't have to define the whole image here, just the darkest regions.

Duplicate the Original layer again, and move it to the top of the layer stack. Name it Lines. Choose Filters->Edge Detect->Difference of Gaussians... Radius 1 is the interesting parameter: higher values make thicker lines, lower values get finer detail. Previewing gives you something of an idea about what you'll get, but you may have to undo and try a different value a few times. 12 is a good value to start with; you might go down to 7 or as high as 30.

Choose Colors->Threshold. Your image will go white. Slide the slider pretty far to the right, and the lines will appear. I usually set it one click below where I get a bunch of noisy specks.

Erase any lines you don't like, or regions of noise.

Set the layer Mode to Multiply and Layer->Merge Down.

Choose Colors->Levels... and set the Output Level on the right to 240.

If you're starting with a black and white image, you'll have to color it by hand. Create a New layer, call it Color, set the layer Mode to Color, and go to town. Otherwise, you can use the color from the photo in your image, and you'll get a really cool look for practically no effort!

Duplicate the Original layer, move the new layer to the top of the layer stack, and name it Color. Set the layer Mode to (surprise!) Color. This probably gives you very little color. Don't worry.

Duplicate the Original layer, move the new layer to the top of the layer stack, and name it Sat. Set the layer Mode to Saturation. Now you have color, probably more than you want. Adjust the Opacity down until it looks about right. Somewhere in the 50-70% is probably good. You'll tweak it later, so you don't have to get it exactly right, right now.

Beware of pink: if colors show up as pink/red instead of what they are supposed to be, you most likely have pure white in your ink, instead of a maximum value of 240.

Secondary shadows
Depending on your image, and how much is shadows, you might very well want to add another layer or two of shadows. Resist the urge to add a whole bunch, or it will look like a messed-up photo rather than graphic art.

Texturing shadows
If you've got a big swath of black that should have texture, like hair or fabric, you might want to pull out a cool black-on-black texture.

Turn off your Color and Sat layers. Go to your Ink layer and use the Select By Color tool to select black. Then go to the Original layer, and Copy and Paste. Name the resulting floating layer Shadows. It will have the portions of the original image that correspond to the blacks in your Ink layer. Choose Colors->Threshold and find the point where you can see the details you've been missing. Choose Colors->Levels and set the Output Level on the right to somewhere around 40.

Move that layer to just above your Ink layer and Layers->Merge Down.

Adding lighter shadows
Similarly, you can use the Select By Color tool to select white from the Ink layer, then go to the Original layer, Copy and Paste. Name the resulting floating layer Shadows (again, because you merged away the old one). Set the layer mode to Multiply and set the Opacity to around 50, so you can get an idea of how it will look, while you're making the shadow. Choose Colors->Threshold and find a point that looks promising; a peak in the color histogram is often a good spot. The shadow should add a lot of bold definition to your image, bringing out contours and separating the medium values from the bright.

Move the Shadows layer to just above the Ink layer in the stack. Turn your Color and Sat layers back on. How's it look? You might want to adjust your Shadows color levels some more. You can do that in Colors->Levels using the gray triangle slider, or by adjusting the Opacity slider on the layer.

When you're happy with your new Shadows layer, Layers->Merge Down so it's part of the Ink layer.

Final clean-ups
At this point, your lines are probably too conspicuous, and your color is suspiciously detailed. On the Ink layer, choose Filters->Blur->Gaussian Blur... and use a radius of 1 or 2. On the Sat layer, choose Filter->Blur->Gaussian Blur... (or Filters->Re-Show Gaussian Blur...) and use a radius of about 11. It should be enough that you don't have ghostly details (like stray hairs) that are defined by color, but not by any of your Ink. You may or may not also need to blur your Color layer.

Play with the Opacity on both the Color and Sat layers. This will make a big difference in the final appearance. You want it to look like subtle airbrushed color, not like a photo overlay.
(1 to 100 of 114 replies)
† David Gunter 14 years ago
I love it

Thanks for posting!
crossmage 14 years ago
Wow, this looks awesome. Thanks!
holistic shock [deleted] 14 years ago
Very cool. I'm definitely going to have to try this.
PhotoComiX Posted 14 years ago. Edited by PhotoComiX (admin) 14 years ago
@Shelly a Roy
your tutorial good as the result
I' m a mod on i will like see your Tut here
Shelly and Roy 14 years ago
To anybody who tries it: give me some feedback on whether the instructions were confusing or steered you wrong at any point. And show off your creations, of course!
Lala50 14 years ago
great tut, I am so far behind in so many things........
jancyclops 14 years ago
I don't think it steers us wrong, I think the only problem is that it has by its very nature to be a bit vague at times because the settings have to be different for different original photos.

Perhaps if you did a step by step pictorial we could see exactly what you mean by comments such as, "Look for contours and textures to appear, and also for the general mood created."

Anyway, I will carry on experimenting and trying to make my photos look like cartoons instead of colourised b&w.


PhotoComiX 14 years ago
jancyclops wrote
Perhaps if you did a step by step pictorial we could see exactly what you mean by comments such as, "Look for contours and textures to appear, and also for the general mood created."

Anyway, I will carry on experimenting and trying to make my photos look like cartoons instead of colourised b&w.

I don't think "Look for contours and textures to appear, " is vague that just depend from the image, while is possible give a almpost exact formla ,as example, to correct light balance of photo taken in certain condition,to get correct outlines and detail or "make appear textures" a exact formula will not work well

Let clear the idea of correct outlines and details : as example in a face...that is something that a filter can't detect well in automatism

A filter may spot lines of a certain thickness, or darkness, more advanced may spot outlines where there are sudden jump in contrast.

But the meaningful lines of the face are for the eyes, the lips the lower part of the nose..doesn't matter how much light there is or from there came, darken details may become blanc, but even if half of face is brightened by a light source both a minimum of detail of both eyes should be preserved..or will look wrong
PhotoComiX Posted 14 years ago. Edited by PhotoComiX (admin) 14 years ago
Then also cartoon is a vague concept...cartoon as Enrique Breccia or as Philippe Druillet? Caza or Frank Miller?

Something as "Spawn" or something as Gordon Flash?

I think i can emulate quite well the style of Guido Crepax,and maybe i may try to explain explain how to do step by step.

here a more clear example (not me that is just a page of a Guido Crepax Comix book

But then emulate other comics styles as example that from Jim Lee Imagine Comics will require a completelly different approach
Vieira 14 years ago
Could you cross-post this on the Technique group? We need more GIMP-geared tutorials there (the place is full of fans of the other product).
jancyclops 14 years ago
PhotoComiX wrote: I don't think "Look for contours and textures to appear, " is vague

It is really because the finished article depends a lot on just how much you let them appear. However, when you include the bit about the mood, that is vague. Don't forget, the finished picture isn't going to show exactly what you were looking at with only some of the layers visible because of the blurring at the end, quite apart from the use of varying opacity and all the layers interacting with one another.

I would like to know how Shelley and Roy went about, for instance, the bottom right example, because it is always easier to see exactly what someone means if they show you than if you just get the text.

BTW, of the four examples at the top of the thread I think the most successful were the two on the right. The guitarist bottom left doesn't seem to work very well with this technique, but that is just my opinion.

Shelly and Roy 14 years ago
@jancyclops: I'd like to be more specific, but I can't. There's a lot of individual judgment involved in deciding what looks right for whatever image you're working on. Slide the slider back and forth and consider what it looks like at each point. You want unimportant things to disappear into shadow, but you want to stop before you obscure important details. Usually, you'll get one edge of a face or figure in sharp relief.

The blurring at the end is just to soften the pixel edges. It doesn't change anything in the larger view, so what you see in the layers should be pretty representative of what you end up with.

If you have an image you'd like to see transformed this way, I'll see if I can make a step-by-step progression of what I do with it.

@PhotoComiX: You're right about there being a lot of styles of comics, and with this technique, the photo does most of the deciding about what the style will be.

Some images work really easily, and some I have to go back and try a few times to figure out what will look best. But the nice thing is that it only takes a few minutes to try a new combination of shadows and lines.
AccidntlTourist 14 years ago
Thank you Shelly and Roy.
I think you are developing a great FAQ for your tutorial (or additional comments / tips).
At some point - screen shots would be an awesome addition.
PhotoComiX Posted 14 years ago. Edited by PhotoComiX (admin) 14 years ago
just traced the link for my very first first tutorial.from color photo to illustration or comics style)

First part may even be of some interest but i really would like a opinion on part 2

This because technique described at beginning of part 2, in my opinion is not only good for create a "illustration effect" but for any kind of conversion from color to BW


Part 3 was lost in a HD crash sorry ...i may even rewrite if of someone is interested
PhotoComiX 14 years ago
PS the script fu i quoted in the tutorial is now in FX Foundry pack
jancyclops 14 years ago
@Shelly and Roy:
What I was getting at is not for you to say what amounts the settings should be but for you to show what the image looked like when you decided you had got it right for, say, the Lines layer when you are saying about going only so far and then coming back one click.

I think I got the idea and as I said before I don't think there is any way that the text instructions can ever be anything but vague. Anyway, here is my effort.


In addition to your instructions, I had to add an extra layer, mask off the shirt, fill it with light blue and change the opacity method to colour because the Sat layer in your guide turned the shirt pink.

Shelly and Roy Posted 14 years ago. Edited by Shelly and Roy (member) 14 years ago
That looks pretty good, Phil. The balance of shadow and lines looks well-suited to the image.

I haven't seen the sort of color shift you're describing with the shirt. Is the original image in your photostream? The Color layer should keep the color in the right family, and the Sat layer (on top) should control how "loud" it gets. Things that are much lighter in the comic than in the original will usually show a good deal more color, but they don't (in my experience) go from one distinct color to another, more from dark neutral to random bright color.

Update: If the white levels of the ink layer haven't been adjusted down to 240, the Color layer won't work, and you'll get erratic coloring. So that's something to check.
jancyclops 14 years ago
I have no idea how I got the colour shift because I have tried it again and can't replicate the problem. I can only assume it was something I did when I was adjusting layers to get the look I wanted, but I don't have any idea what it was that turned the shirt pink. I don't remember doing anything which should have changed the colour (e.g. mucking about with the hue). I did reduce the white level of the ink layer to 240 so it wasn't that.

The original of this photo isn't on Flickr but there is a small version from the same original on the Enfield Town FC web site in the "Sponsors" page.

mollyjolly 14 years ago
I'm actually glad to hear that jancyclops had the color shift, since this happened to me, and I couldn't figure out what I did wrong. I think maybe in the prep part where I was trying to get the photo ready for this process, I may have decomposed the color shot to tone down the redness in my niece's face (not the one I have in the picture with the rose), and I thought maybe I had jacked it up by doing this. I also had a big shift to pink, which is why I thought this might be related to the decomposing - red is the layer that I worked with on shifting the tone for the b&w image before I merged it with the original layer.
Shelly and Roy 14 years ago
Your color and saturation layers are just copies of your original, so you can always turn them to Normal mode to make sure nothing wacky has happened to them.

Red is Hue 0, and so if you have a saturation applied to an area with no color, it's going to go red (pink). My best guess is that one of the layers ended up with white somehow.
mollyjolly Posted 14 years ago. Edited by mollyjolly (member) 14 years ago
Okay, I tried it on another photo, again it turned pink. It was an outdoor shot of my white dog, so not quite sure what happened here. So I moved on and found an indoor shot, so the lighting may also play a role. Here's my final result, which isn't outstanding, but gave me a pretty good start:

Frankie on time graphical

And this is the original, so you can judge where/how I could have done some adjusting.

Frankie on time original
mollyjolly 14 years ago
Thanks for the additional "watch for pink" step. I think maybe I was changing the wrong value - the one for input levels instead of output levels.
Shelly and Roy Posted 14 years ago. Edited by Shelly and Roy (member) 14 years ago
@mollyjolly: I took the liberty of doing a few rounds on your image. Flat-lit images like this are challenging, because you don't get a lot of helpful shadows.

The top image is a basic 1-shadow, lines, color+sat. Compared to your choices, I accepted a lot more speckling in the lines, and I let the shadows almost completely obscure the eye color. I really wanted to get those forehead lines represented somehow.

In the middle image, I've added a highlight shadow, covering all but the very lightest bits. It brings out some of the colors a little more, but overall wasn't very effective. I've had luck with it in other images, though.

In the last image, I added a medium shadow, which brings out the wood tones better and defines the eyes, hairline, and face. You had a similar shadow; compared to yours, I covered a bit more of the image, affecting the hair color more, but cutting the glare on the wood. I also lightened the lines layer in this one a bit (set the black output level to 80 on the layer), to make the speckling a bit less stark.

I did these to illustrate some trade-offs to look for when moving sliders and deciding whether and what kinds of shadows to add, not to suggest that you did anything wrong. Thanks for posting your example; I think it will be helpful to others.
jancyclops 14 years ago
I have now used this technique to produce a "splash screen" image for the Enfield Town FC web site.

Here is the image I produced. I have put in this link because there are several of these and they get called up at random (so you might not see this one just by going to the club web site).

The original photo is on Flickr:–
Enfield Town 0 Waltham Forest 3

This took quite a bit of doing because the grass came out too garish (even more so than in the finished article) so I mucked about with the yellow and green saturation and lightness slightly.

Looking at this and my previous effort, I can't help feeling this is the ideal technique to use to convert photos to colour illustrations if you ever have to illustrate a "Boy's Own" type book!

stephendl Posted 14 years ago. Edited by stephendl (member) 14 years ago
Fantastic explanation! I found it easy and straightforward to follow. I had a few attempts with my own pics but couldn't get any really good results. So I found a CC image to use.

The only thing I would say is that I'd appreciate some hints about the sort of photo that works well with this technique...

Advice / creative criticism is welcome (encouraged please!). I like the result but can't help thinking it could be better.

Old Lady - Comic Book

Original image by Sukanto Debnath. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Shelly and Roy Posted 14 years ago. Edited by Shelly and Roy (member) 14 years ago
@jancyclops: When the colors won't behave, it's usually because the original is much darker than what it's getting mapped to in the comic. The grass is pretty dark, as is a lot of the rest of the photo. That's a situation that calls for a secondary shadow.

I've uploaded my image to the pool for illustration:


I brightened up the image a bit before I worked on it, so my values won't be quite the same as yours, but I thresholded the secondary shadow at about the 128 level, which gave the shadows you can see on the central player's face and knee, as well as throughout the grass and the red in the clothes and elsewhere. You'll note that the uniform colors are much less exciting, too, which may be an undesirable side-effect.

So much of the image is in that midrange of brightness that I didn't have to reduce the color or saturation at all.

I agree with your last comment: many of these come out looking like illustrations from books for small children.

Shelly and Roy 14 years ago
@stephendl: I wish I knew how to tell whether an image would work well. Clean lines are obviously very helpful, and non-subtle lighting. If subtle lighting is important to the image, it won't carry over into a comic, where there's no gradual shading (although you might be able to get that effect by introducing noise).

Background textures (like leafy trees) tend to become a distracting mess in line-detection, so it's important that backgrounds be very simple or very blurred.

Your image came out great. The only thing I'd like to see different in it would be the medium shadow be darker.
jancyclops 14 years ago
@Shelly and Roy: I can see what you mean about the extra shading. Oddly enough, with this one the "Boy's Own" type illustration which I came up with is nearer what I was looking for. At other times it clearly isn't, so then I would need to do more adjustment of the shadows.

BTW, "Boy's Own" doesn't mean children's books per se. It is a particular style which was used a lot in the UK from the Victorian era up to World War 2 and gets its name from a jingoistic English publication, the "Boy's Own Paper" because the stories illustrated using this method could mostly have come straight from the BOP. If you have ever seen the Michael Palin/Terry Jones TV programme called "Ripping Yarns" it is the illustration style used on the book cover in the opening credits.

Edward Whymper, who was one of the illustrators for "Boy's Own Paper", is immortalised in a stained glass pub window in London because he was a member of the first successful team to climb the Matterhorn.

Those sorts of publications died a death after 1945 because the number of foreign allied troops over here during the war meant we had to admit that we hadn't done things all on our own. The help from the Prussians at Waterloo, for example, could be glossed over because the public at large never saw them in England and the returning heroes were all British.

Anyway, the colour illustrations, used mainly for covers, tended to be very brightly coloured and the lines tended not to be the unbroken solid lines we associate with comics today, because the artists were trying to be more realistic. For that reason your technique is extremely good at aping what was being done by hand 60 to about 120 years ago.

CBGB_Hoser 14 years ago
Dammit I had horrible results.

I did venture in without my tomtom though, so I'll give it another go over the weekend :) Thanks for keeping up with the thread,
mollyjolly Posted 14 years ago. Edited by mollyjolly (member) 14 years ago
@Shelly and Roy: thanks, I appreciate the example of various options. It does help to see where you can use some variations on the tutorial. Here's an outdoor shot that turned out much better:

Miranda graphic art
CBGB_Hoser 14 years ago
Ok then, hella cool :)

Thank you for posting this tut !\

parade truck
mollyjolly 14 years ago
Okay, I'm loving it more and more. Here's my latest attempt. And thanks to your awesome tutorial, it took me only about 10-15 minutes to complete this one.

Sean's bubble delight
Redsonja84 Posted 14 years ago. Edited by Redsonja84 (member) 14 years ago

And screwed up finish. Followed step by step, and can't figure out how to fix it...

And without finishing, no shadow fixing etc. but also NO COLOR!

Shelly and Roy 13 years ago
@Redsonja84: You've got a challenging image, there. There really isn't a lot of color in the main area of interest, and the light balance features the center of the shirt, leaving the face in the shadows.

I took a shot at it. I started by brightening the region around her face and dimming the rest. Then I went through the process to see how my choices compared with yours.

In general, I recommend going bolder: don't divide the black shadow, just let it be black; and threshold your lines higher, so you get more definition of the hair, eyes, and hand.

Apart from that, I went with two levels of (non-black) shadows: one around middle-brightness that framed the face, and one that defined the contours of the eyes.

bunny suit fix
Serishen Cagney 13 years ago
Thank you for this excellent tutorial. It worked wonderfully on my photos!
Guillermo Power Posted 13 years ago. Edited by Guillermo Power (member) 13 years ago
This is one of mine:

Pink Mercury

It was my second attempt at something like this. My first is my avatar :)
Randy Roc 13 years ago
here's my attempt:

Graphic Me 2
electric clover [deleted] 13 years ago
Triumph Daytona
Randy Roc 13 years ago
@ viridari:
-R 13 years ago
I have only recently downloaded Gimp and I can't wait to try this!
electric clover [deleted] Posted 13 years ago. Edited by electric clover (member) 13 years ago
@Randy - Thanks ... I've actually been working on my own workflow for making comic book art from photos. I had a photoshoot this afternoon and came up with this:

Randy Roc 13 years ago
Sweet shot! The graininess in the background really adds to the effect.
~Tony~ 13 years ago
great works!
but..there is a tutorial? how to do?
Karl-Georg B 13 years ago
A quick test: Dublicate your picture. Make the new layer grayscale with Desaturate. Posterize it with 3-5 levels. Set the layer Mode to Value. Adjust the saturation of the original.

Satisfied? Probably not! This is a very crude method. You have no control of the amounts and shades of gray. But you get a feeling for if your picture is suitable for a comic-book transformation, and what you have to do to achieve a good result.

If it looks promising, delete it and start all over again with Shelly and Roys full tutorial. 13 years ago
I finally did it! I will definitely be trying this again!

Thanks Shelly and Roy!
r_stein 13 years ago
This is really cool!

I'll "steal" it for my video podcast at
electric clover [deleted] 13 years ago
@r_stein - just make sure to give credit to those you steal from. Posted 13 years ago. Edited by (member) 13 years ago
That's okay, like viridari said, just give the proper credit. The photo was taken by my boyfriend Brent Gilbert, and I (Brooke Gross) did the editing.
r_stein Posted 13 years ago. Edited by r_stein (member) 13 years ago
Portrait as a "Comic"
The video will be online from July 1, 17:00 GMT at Meet the GIMP!
r_stein 13 years ago
And here is the video:

I did some things different as described in the tutorial. And I am not completely happy with the result I got. It should have been less photography and more comic. I'll try again, not necessarily on video. ;-)
BiloxiSean 13 years ago
I tried it on this photo

Major General Jackson

and got this

Major General Jackson
jeffegg2 13 years ago
Andreas Guther Posted 13 years ago. Edited by Andreas Guther (member) 13 years ago
Thank you very much for the tutorial and the posting. This is a great way to learn about layers. For the last few days I tried to get familiar with the technique. It really depends on ones experience with Gimp and the different color tools how easy it is to understand the tutorial. For example I missed an explanation regarding the output level and the affect it has on the outcome.

However, I love the technique and I just need to practice and experiment to figure out how thinks work best. Here is an example of an picture of my daughters I converted. This is the second try and between the first and this one I worked on a bunch of other pictures.

Melanie and Alissa
Cichy 13 years ago
Comic...or photo?

Cool technique!
Not sure I fully understand. There is one step that says to create a floating layer then move the float down the layer stack and merge down. In GIMP 2.4.6, you cannot move layers up/down if there is a float nor can you "merge down" a float, you have to anchor it. Anyhow, here's my attempt. I'm not terribly happy with it so any suggestions for improvement would be appreciated.

Comic Book Rufus #1 (by coondawg_97)
Shelly and Roy 13 years ago
If you have a floating layer, and you double-click on the place where it says "floating layer", you can give it a new name, and it becomes its own layer. Your normal process of turning a floating layer into a regular layer might be somewhat different.

Anchoring puts the layer into an existing one, which is not what you want to do most of the time.

Is this the original you worked from?

You might be happier if you dropped the upper level down from 240, or added another layer of shadows to cover more of his muzzle. The white outlining effect you got is pretty neat.
I didn't upload the original for this but it is very similar to this one:
Rufus Portrait #4 (by coondawg_97)

I also like the outline. What ruins it for me is all the fur detail in the muzzle. I could try more shadow on it but as you can see, he does have a light colored muzzle.
Shelly and Roy 13 years ago
If it is the edge-detection (Lines layer) that's introducing too-harsh details, you can try doing it twice, with different thresholding values, so one has more detail than the other. Then reduce the opacity of the more-detaile one, so it doesn't stand out quite so much.

Or you might be just as happy having a single Lines layer, thresholded a bit lower, and/or with the opacity reduced.
thestandards 13 years ago
Your post helped me figure out a process for The Standards.

Here is a peek:

My eternal gratitude is yours.
thestandards 13 years ago
PS. If you add a layer of Desaturated Neon it adds that 3-Dish effect you see in the above photo..
Bud's Rubber Room 13 years ago
this is such a great technique, and an awesomely detailed tut... Thanks
Comic Render: B
Nick Barkworth 13 years ago
Thanks very much!
curly crayon [deleted] 13 years ago
Hi folks,
I'm trying to turn a photo into a cartoon. I followed the nice tutorial, but I'm being mad, cause always appears the damned pink/red when I active the saturation mode of the sat layer... :-(

Can anybody help me? :-)

Congratulations Bud's Rubber Room! it's awesome!!!

mollyjolly 13 years ago
@xbelanch: I had the same problem the first time or two I tried to use this. My problem was that I was not lowering the right number to 240. One is input, the other is output. Can't remember which is the right one to adjust, but I was adjusting the opposite one. Hope this helps.
jc5083 Posted 13 years ago. Edited by jc5083 (member) 13 years ago
Thanks for the great tutorial! The level of detail is perfect. We're going to keep practicing, but here are our first attempts.

Attack of the giant zucchini Engulfed
jarnx 13 years ago
thanks for the tutorial. gave me the results i was looking for for a long time...
here's what i made:
18052008 jarn tie
raj.c 13 years ago
Thanks for the tutorial. Great!!!
HyperBob 13 years ago
Innocent when you dream
the_andy_man 13 years ago
Here's my shot at it.

Comic Book Piggy-Back Ride by the_andy_man

What do you think?
holistic shock [deleted] Posted 13 years ago. Edited by holistic shock (member) 13 years ago
Finally, I'm getting a feel for this technique.


Thanks again for posting this how-to.
the_andy_man 13 years ago
Cartoon Piggy-Back Ride by the_andy_man

This is slightly different, but I thought some of you may like to see it anyways.
arahmanzz 13 years ago
"Kewl' stuuf here
dalucero 13 years ago
I had the Pink problem too. Set the color level max to 240 also. Then I changed the Saturation layer's mode back to normal with 50% opacity and that seemed to fix it. Don't know why though.

DSC02252 by dalucero

DSC02252_comicbook by dalucero
the_andy_man 13 years ago
Nice job there. I haven't ever given this another try, maybe I should. It's hard with people, because I had trouble getting the faces to look right.
appletonkelli 13 years ago
Okay, I was making cartoons using the script in Gimp but they don't look anything like yours.

I think I will scrap mine and start all over and use your technique!!!
jancyclops 13 years ago
I have found that this technique can cause problems if the original photo is of someone with dark skin. It can make black or Asian people look white. Especially when adjusting the photo so other bits look the way you want.

I am currently working on a new "splash screen" for a football club web site. I need to muck about a bit more to get the thing to look exactly the way I want it to but I found I had to add the following steps.

1. In the Sat layer I selected an area which was supposed to be brown but was far too pink using the "Select by colour" tool [Ctrl+O].

2. I created a new transparent layer and filled the selection with brown. This makes too much of the picture go brown but not to worry.

3. I created a layer mask (white full opacity).

4. I then used the free select tool with "add to the current selection" selected and drew around all the bits I wanted to remain brown. You don't have to be too accurate here except where something you want to remain brown and something you don't are very close together.

5. I then inverted the mask [Ctrl+I] and filled the whole selection with black.

jwilliams43 13 years ago
Thank you so much for this tutorial! This is easily the best of its kind on the web. Here is my attempt at it:
Mum & dad cartoon by jwilliams43
mollyjolly 13 years ago
Graphic art

First time I've been successful on an indoor shot.
rodneybohner 13 years ago
Cool tut. Ive done a few pictures now, heres my fav so far:
Butch by rodneybohner

Heres all of em:
WoNdErX 13 years ago
nice art, tnx
uriavalos 12 years ago
Hey guys what version of GIMP was this written for? I'm using version 2.6 and it fails with the Lines step. (1) Guassian-edge detection gives me two radii, and Invert and Normalize. Setting Radius 1 to 30 even as far as 1000 does NOTHING. I get a blank screen no matter what I do. (2) When I merge down the three layers, I get ONE layer. So for the COLOR step are we supposed to reload the original photo?
sixmats 12 years ago
If you're having problems, check this link:
Shelly and Roy 12 years ago
From that thread: (Due to a bug in Gimp 2.6: right-click on the Lines layer and Remove Alpha Channel, or Difference of Gaussians will not work)
uriavalos 12 years ago
@Shelly and Roy@ - you guys are geniuses. Been playing around with this technique using simple edge detection and the results have been blowing me away.

Now that I know Gaussian-edge detection has a bug in 2.6, will make sure to try it using the workaround. It was driving me insane.

Thanks again
uriavalos 12 years ago
I'm sorry to report that after removing the alpha channel, gaussian-edge detection gave me back a BLACK screen no matter how I changed the parameters. AND the simple Laplace detection stopped working. Sigh...

Oh well gonna search the web to see if this annoying bug has been fixed
AdSR on Flickr 12 years ago
Excellent tutorial. Sometimes may help turn a dull photo into something interesting.

"No, Mr. Kairys, I want you to fly!"
Shelly and Roy 12 years ago
uriavalos: You can try un-checking the "Invert" box in Difference of Gaussians. For me, that affected the preview, but not the final result.

After running the filter, you'd need to invert colors, of course. If you're getting a black screen, you probably need to invert colors, anyway.
Leah Cross 12 years ago
Something I made using the tutorial:
Comic edit by Leah Cross

Awesome, thanks for the help :D
Jeremy Stockwell 12 years ago
Here's my sooc shot:

and the final treatment:
Midvale School for the Gifted

Thanks for the great tutorial!
kcmckell 12 years ago
Jeremy Stockwell LOVE IT!
Nick_J_L 12 years ago

Here's my first attempt...
Busker on La Defensa, San Telmo by Nick_J_L
Scott Coulter 12 years ago
Jeremy Stockwell WOW! Best use yet of this processing method. Instant fave.
Jeremy Stockwell 12 years ago
Thanks for the positive feedback, folks.

Here's another attempt:

Here's the original edit:

...and the final treatment

On this one, I got an interesting effect by adding the original edit back at the top of the stack and adding it in to the final edit as "Hard Light" about 60% opacity.
bl0ndeeo2 12 years ago

very cool, however, i am not sure if this was the right picture to try this with. it took me about 5 tries to get it to this point, mostly because i kept missing a step.
PhotoComiX 12 years ago
also add that concentric effect on the wall .and the text on the doors helped.....nice result!
Strangely Different 12 years ago
Thank you so much! This forum made me finally learn how to use layers! Ive had the Gimp for months and never figured it out. LOL
Strangely Different 12 years ago
Here s my first dabble with layers and the other tools listed in this tutorial. Thanks!
cow layer by Strangely Different
dotto83 12 years ago
Here's one I've put together. I've been trying to play around with using the curves tool on a desaturated image to give more shading, but I haven't quite gotten the knack for it yet.
Whiskey Paint2 by dotto83
dotto83 12 years ago
This is closer to what I wanted:
Whiskey Paint4 by dotto83
JanKardel Posted 12 years ago. Edited by JanKardel (member) 12 years ago
I also tried an Comic -Graffiti Style from an Photo.
In this Example the Checker Taxi was a Photo.

Mein 2.Graffiti

I have made it for an Video Tutorial:
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